Except When It's Not

EXCEPT WHEN IT’S NOT 3-7 DECEMBER 2010 / SO STOCKHOLM GALLERY

exceptwhenitsnot — Wed, 17 Nov 2010 10:51:37 +0000

/ SO STOCKHOLM GALLERY / KUNGSTRÄDGÅRDEN /
/3-7 DEC / Opening 3.12 17-21 / Gallery open 4-7.12 10-18 /

For more information: exceptwhenitsnot@gmail.com

ALICE FINE

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 14:37:55 +0000

BLACKWORK
Karin Bjurström arbetar med mode och scenkostym under namnet ALICE FINE. Karin tog sin kandidatexamen från Konstfack Textil 2009.
Blackwork är en kollektion med mönster tecknade för hand. Temat för kollektionen är tekniken, en undersökning i att skapa mönster där vikten ligger vid spontanitet och intuition. Tekniken kan liknas vid ett slags modernt broderi, där nål & tråd har bytts mot penna. Bläckets slutgiltighet och den skevhet som skapas av handens rörelse, både kontrollerar och befriar tillverkningsprocessen.
Karin har experimenterat med idén om automatisk skrift som använts bland annat av Surrealisterna under 20-talet. I sitt arbete har hon utsatt sig för ett brett utbud av mönster för att sedan undersöka hur det påverkar det egna uttrycket. Resultatet är intuitivt och påverkat av ett planlöst arbete direkt på tyget.
Namnet Blackwork är hämtat från en broderiteknik, där man broderar med svart garn på vitt tyg. Tekniken har en lång och brokig historia och har utvecklats under flera århundraden. Under “Except when it’s not” visar Karin Bjurström sin version, i en nutida modekontext.

www.alicefine.com / info@alicefine.com

BLACKWORK
Karin Bjurström works with fashion design and stage costume under the name ALICE FINE. Karin has a bachelor’s degree from Konstfack College of Arts, Crafts and Design.
Blackwork is a collection with hand drawn patterns. The main theme of the collection is the technique itself. Karin Bjurström has investigated a method of creating patterns where the importance lies in spontaneity and intuition. The technique can be described as a kind of modern embroidery, where needle & thread has been replaced by pen. The conclusiveness of the ink and the skewness created by hand drawing, both controls and liberates the manufacturing process .
Blackwork is also an experiment with the idea of automatic writing used by the surrealists in the 20′s. In this process Karin has exposed herself to a wide range of patterns with the purpose of finding out how it effects her own pattern making. The result is the outcome of intuition, of working directly on the fabric without planing ahead.
The name Blackwork is taken from an embroidery technique, where you embroider with black thread on white fabric. The technique has a long and colourful history and has evolved over several centuries. During “Except when it’s not” Karin Bjurström is showing her version, in a contemporary fashion context.

www.alicefine.com / info@alicefine.com

ANNA TIMONEN

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 14:06:33 +0000

UTAN TITEL
Anna Timonen är utbildad på Konstfack och École Nationale Supérieur Des Arts Décoratifs i Paris. Hon jobbar med mode och kläder och tycker att spänningen i kläder ligger i dess enorma kommunikativa kraft.
Hon ser på design som uttryck för känslor, drömmar och berättelser i samverkan. Ett sätt att få hjärtan att slå och ögon att öppnas. I sin egen design värderar Anna hantverket högt och förädlar ofta sina tyger genom tryck och färgning eller andra tekniker före tillskärningen.

timonen.anna@gmail.com

NO TITEL
Anna Timonen was schooled at Konstfack, Stockholm, and at École Nationale Supérieur Des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. She works with fashion and clothes. Anna finds that the excitment of clothes lies in their power to communicate.
She considers design to be an expression of the interaction between emotions, dreams and storytelling. A way to open eyes and make hearts beat. In her own design Anna highly values the use of handicraft and she often refines her fabrics through printing, colouring and other textile techniques before cutting.

timonen.anna@gmail.com

ARIAH

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 14:02:27 +0000

ARIAH.10.c
Maria E Harrysson har en kandidatexamen från Konstfacks Textila institution, och arbetar under namnet ARIAH.
I sitt arbete, som berör begreppet mode, behandlar hon ofta ämnet värde. Hur värderar vi ting om man räknar bort kommersiella och ekonomiska parametrar, i dagens rådande shopping- klimat där vi står långt ifrån tillverkningsprocess?
I denna frågeställning använder hon sig ofta av material som inte har något ekonomiskt värde för att se om dess betydelse ökar genom handens påverkan eller omsorg genom tid. Hon intresserar sig för den värdeladdning man inte kan ta på; det värde som kan uppnås i en lyckoamulett eller vid rituella handlingar.

www.ariah.se / mail@ariah.se

ARIAH.10.c
Maria E Harrysson has a Bachelor’s Degree from Konstfack Textile department, and is working under the name ARIAH.
In her work, concerning the concept of fashion, she often deals with the subject of value. How do we value things if we exclude commercial and economic parameters in today’s current shopping environment, where we find ourselves far from the manufacturing process?
Dealing with this issue, she often uses materials that have no economical value, investigating if its importance is increased by the hand-work or through time spent. She is interested in intangible values, such as those found in lucky charms or through ritual actions.

www.ariah.se / mail@ariah.se

EVA-MARIA ANDERSSON

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:59:09 +0000

MAKEUPMIND
Eva-Maria Andersson är designer utbildad och verksam i både Stockholm och Paris. Hon arbetar med mode i en konceptuell tradition och har tidigare assisterat både Martin Margiela och designgruppen Bless.
Hennes motto är ”tänk om”. Hon arbetar ofta med det kollektiva minnet och bearbetar vad som redan bestämts, och setts som mode. Hon ser sin design som ett sätt att generera nya perspektiv på tillvaron.
I utställningen ”Except when its not” visar Eva-Maria en installation baserad på plagg från sin senaste kollektion ”makeupmind”. Kollektionen är inspirerad av sminkpaletten och färger som shanghai red, rose dilemma, sundress och intrigue.

andersson.evamaria@gmail.com

MAKE-UP MIND
Eva-Maria Andersson is a designer trained and based in Stockholm and Paris. She is
working within a conceptual tradition of fashion and has assisted both Martin Margiela and the design group Bless.
Eva-Marias motto is “what if”. She often works with the collective memory and process what
has already been decided and observed as fashion. She sees her designs as a way to generate new perspective on life.
In the exhibition “Except-when its not” Eva-Maria shows an installation that includes items from her past collection of “makeupmind”, inspired by the makeup palette and paints like shanghai red, rose dilemma, sundress and intrigue.

andersson.evamaria@gmail.com

GÖRAN KLING

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:53:39 +0000

UTAN TITEL
Göran Kling är Guldsmed och formgivare. Med en utbildning inom det traditionella hantverket och en kandidatexamen i konst verkar han emellan två världar. Inom guldsmedsyrket finns en stolthet för hantverket och ett kunnande om människor, men även en mängd regler och en ovilja att förnyas. Inom smyckekonsten finns inga regler, allt är tillåtet och möjligt. Där går också sensationen alltid först och hänsynen för bäraren saknas. Att kombinera samtida idéer med hantverkstradition är Görans sätt att föra samman de båda världarna. När både guldsmedsyrket och konstvärlden känns främmande har Göran nu hittat sin plattform i en modekontext, där det centrala är produkten.

www.gorankling.com / bling@gorankling.com

NO TITEL
Göran Kling is a goldsmith and a designer. With an education in the traditional craftsmanship and a bachelor of arts, he is in between two worlds. Within the goldsmiths trade there is a pride of craftsmanship and an understanding for the customers needs, but also a lot of rules and unwillingness to modernize. Within jewelry art there are no rules and everything is permitted and possible. But the sensation is always primary and the consideration for the wearer is missing. Combining contemporary ideas with craft tradition is Göran’s way of bringing together the two worlds. When either traditional jewelery making, or the art world feels comfortable, Göran has now found his platform in a fashion context, where focus is on the product.

www.gorankling.com / bling@gorankling.com

HANNA WIESLANDER

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:27:15 +0000

FALL
Hanna Wieslanders verk utgår från Masaccios fresk “The expulsion of Adam and Eve”, 1425- 28, som avbildar Adam och Evas utvisande ur Paradiset. Genom att äta frukt från Kunskapens Träd, blir de blir medvetna om sin nakenhet och tvingas lämna Edens lustgård. Detta för att hindra dem från att äta frukt från Livets träd, vilket hade gjort dem odödliga. Det oskuldsfulla tillståndet innan kännedomen om “kunskapen” – skulden och skammen efteråt, satt i en kontext av mode och modeindustri, utgör plattformen för Hanna Wieslanders verk. Masaccios framställning av mänsklig skam och ånger är huvudsaklig inspiration.

www.hannawieslander.se / hanna@hannawieslander.se

FALL
Masaccios fresco “The expulsion of Adam and Eve” (1425-28) depicts Adam and Eve being expelled from Paradise. They become aware of their nakedness as a result of eating fruit from the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil and are forced to leave the Garden of Eden. This to prevent them from eating fruit from the Tree of Life, wich would make them immortal. The sin- free state of mind before tasting “knowledge”, and the guilt and shame after- put in the context of fashion and fashionindustry will serve as a platform of inspiration for Hanna Wieslanders piece. Masaccios depiction of human shame and regret as the main inspiration.

www.hannawieslander.se / hanna@hannawieslander.se

MINNAPALMQVIST

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:23:39 +0000

INTIMATELY SOCIAL 6.10
”The trend is still away from big breasts. They should be completely flattened by next season” (Lisa Armstrong; The Independence 4.7.1993)
Minna Palmqvists arbete har sin utgångspunkt i de konflikter som uppstår mellan modevärldens perfektion och den krassa verkligheten; mellan den socialt accepterade ytan och vår intima föränderliga kropp.
Projektet Intimately Social började som ett magisterarbete från Konstfack 2007, och har sedan dess kommit att bli en samling plagg, filmer, installationer och objekt som på olika sätt diskuterar den kvinnliga kroppens plats i modet.
Intimately Social 6.10 som visas under utställningen Except when it’s not är den sjätte versionen av projektet, och fokuserar på synen på kroppen som säsongsvara.

www.minnapalmqvist.com / contact@minnapalmqvist.com

INTIMATELY SOCIAL 6.10
”The trend is still away from big breasts. They should be completely flattened by next season” (Lisa Armstrong; The Independence 4.7.1993)
Minna Palmqvist’s work has its starting point in the conflict between the perfect world of fashion and the sordid reality; between the socially accepted surface, and our intimate ever- changing bodies.
Intimately Social started as a master project from Konstfack College of Arts, Crafts and Design in 2007, and has since developed into a number of garments, films, installations and objects, in different ways discussing the female body within fashion.
Intimately Social 6.10, shown during Except when it’s not, is the sixth variation of the project, approaching the body as an object to seasonal changes.

www.minnapalmqvist.com / contact@minnapalmqvist.com

PERNILLA ROZENBERG

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:17:21 +0000

ETT SVART HÅL
Ett svart hål. Dit alla bortslängda, utslitna och förkastade textila ting sugs in och får finnas, ett svart dolt monument. Där kunskaper och erfarenheter från hantverk hamnar när vi inte intresserar oss för dem längre. Materia och ljus som kommer in innanför det svarta hålet förblir där och kan aldrig rymma.
Pernilla är textildesigner som jobbar sporadiskt mellan mode, illustration och konst. Hon har sin studio på galleri Detroit i Stockholm.

www.pernillarozenberg.com / www.detroitstockholm.com / info@pernillarozenberg.com

A BLACK HOLE
A black hole. Where thrown away, worn out and rejected textile things get sucked in and can exist, a black hidden monument. Where knowledge and experience from crafts end up when they loose their importance. Matter and light entering the black hole remains there and can never escape.
Pernilla Rozenberg is a textile designer that works sporadically between fashion, illustration and art. She has her studio at gallery Detroit in Stockholm.

www.pernillarozenberg.com / www.detroitstockholm.com / info@pernillarozenberg.com

ELINA STÅLHANDSKE

exceptwhenitsnot — Sat, 13 Nov 2010 13:14:24 +0000

TACIT WORKS
Det osägbara, intuitionen, går som en röd tråd i Elina Stålhandskes verk. Hon arbetar på ett konsthantverksmässigt sätt med kläder och mode, där hantverket och tekniken har en central roll. Genom en intuitiv och direkt arbetsmetod undersöker Elina på vilket sätt hantverkets teknik fungerar i kroppen, i form av tyst kunskap.
Åskådaren eller bäraren av plagget bjuds in för att själv ta ställning till hur det ska bäras och blir på så sätt en del av undersökandet. Människan och kroppen står i centrum och det är viktigt för Elina att förmedla drivkraften, lusten och flödet i arbetet.

www.tacitworks.se / hello@tacitworks.se

TACIT WORKS
The unsayable, intuition, runs through Elina Stålhandske ́s work as a red thread. She applies a method of craftsmanship to her work in the field of clothes and fashion. Through an intuitive and direct process she investigates how craft and it’s techniques function in the body as tacit knowledge.
The viewer or wearer of the garment are invited to self-determine how it should be worn and thus becomes part of the project. The human body plays an important roll, as well as passing on the driving force, enthusiasm and flow in the work.